Sambalpuri handloom’s history stretches back over a millennium, rooted deeply in the culture and tradition of Odisha. Sambalpuri handloom has surpassed centuries of evolution, transforming from a local artisanal practice into a globally admired textile tradition. The journey of Sambalpuri handloom is not just the story of a fabric, but of the people who have painstakingly preserved its artistry for over a thousand years.
The art of weaving, especially in western Odisha, is said to have originated with the Bhulia community, a group of weavers whose skill in creating intricate sarees has been passed down through countless generations. These weavers, belonging to the Other Backward Classes (OBC) and primarily known by the surname “Meher,” developed what we now call Sambalpuri sarees.
The craft of handloom weaving in Odisha dates as far back as the fourth century BC, and it is believed that the Bhulias hold a unique history that traces back to 1192 AD, when they fled from Northern India in the aftermath of the fall of the Chouhan Empire. Despite its long and illustrious history, Sambalpuri handloom remained a regional treasure for much of its existence. It was the mid 20th century which marked a significant turning point for Sambalpuri handloom. As India’s independence movement gathered pace, there was a renewed interest in the country’s traditional arts and crafts, including its rich textile heritage. This movement, which sought to promote India’s cultural legacy as a form of national pride, played a critical role in shining a spotlight on the craft of the Bhulia weavers.
During the independence movement, Indian artists and designers began to look to indigenous textile traditions for inspiration, and Sambalpuri handloom was among those that gained recognition. The weavers, who had long been producing exquisite sarees, found a growing market within India as more people began to appreciate the artistry and skill involved in their craft. With the rise of nationalist sentiment, handloom fabrics became symbols of Indian identity and self-reliance, and Sambalpuri sarees began to emerge from their regional confines to gain nationwide acclaim.
During the 1960s and 1970s, the global fascination with Indian textiles emerged as western designers started to include traditional Indian fabrics and motifs in their collections, which has significantly elevated the profile of Sambalpuri handloom. But a key moment in the rise of Sambalpuri handloom came in the 1980s, when former Prime Minister Indira Gandhi became their first brand ambassador by flaunting it at public functions making them a symbol of elegance and cultural pride. This endorsement not only gave the saree national visibility but also sparked a surge in demand across India. Her choice to wear a Sambalpuri saree became a reflection of support for the handloom industry. Following this, celebrities and fashion enthusiasts began to embrace Sambalpuri sarees, further boosting their popularity. By the late 20th century, Sambalpuri sarees were being exported to countries around the world. Globalisation expanded the market for Sambalpuri sarees, attracting international buyers seeking beautiful, artisanal creations. The sarees began to be showcased in global fashion shows, reinforcing their status as part of India’s textile heritage.
A significant milestone in the evolution of Sambalpuri sarees came in 2010 when they were granted Geographical Indication (GI) status. This recognition ensured that only sarees woven in specific districts of Odisha could be labelled as Sambalpuri sarees, protecting their authenticity and preventing imitation.
Sambalpuri handloom remains a resilient and thriving craft. It is more than just a textile; it is a symbol of Odisha’s cultural identity and artistic legacy. For the people of Odisha, especially those in the western regions where this craft originated, owning and wearing a Sambalpuri saree is a matter of pride. It represents a connection to their heritage, a celebration of their craftsmanship, and a preservation of their traditions. It is a piece of wearable art, a tangible link between the wearer and the cultural history of Odisha.
The future of Sambalpuri sarees lies in the balance between preserving tradition and embracing modernization. As the global demand for sustainable, artisanal fashion continues to grow, there is a unique opportunity for Sambalpuri sarees to further expand their reach. By staying true to their roots while adapting to the changing fashion landscape, Sambalpuri sarees can continue to flourish as both a symbol of India’s rich cultural heritage and a beacon of sustainable fashion.
The evolution of Sambalpuri sarees from a local craft to a global phenomenon is a testament to the skill, creativity, and resilience of Odisha’s weavers. Over the centuries, the sarees have adapted to changing times while remaining deeply connected to their cultural origins. Today, Sambalpuri sarees stand as a shining example of India’s rich textile tradition and the potential for sustainable fashion to thrive in the modern world. By embracing both tradition and innovation, Sambalpuri sarees are poised to continue their journey as a beloved and enduring symbol of craftsmanship and cultural pride.
Author: Prerana Meher
Twitter: @PreranaMeher