India has a rich tapestry of textile arts which has always been a demonstration to its cultural depth and diversity, with each region offering something unique to the country’s vibrant artistic heritage. One such remarkable example is the Sambalpuri handloom, an ancient craft from the culturally vibrant state of Odisha which is known for its intricate designs, vivid colours, and remarkable craftsmanship. Sambalpuri sarees, renowned for their extraordinary woven pallus and borders. These exquisite pieces of art are 100% handwoven by the Bhulia community. Reflecting an original style of craft known as Baandha or “Bandhakala” craftsmanship, Sambalpuri sarees are not just beautiful but also practical. Renowned for their airy texture, these sarees offer comfort in hot summers and warmth in chilly winters, making them adaptable attire suitable for all seasons.
All types of Sambalpuri sarees, collectively known as “Pata,” received their Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2010, confirming their authenticity and origin in districts like Bargarh, Sonepur, Sambalpur, Balangir, and Boudh in Odisha. These sarees come in various types, including Ikat, Pasapalli, Sonepuri, Bomkai, and Bapta, showcasing the diversity of this traditional craft.
Renowned master artists such as Shri Krutartha Acharya, Shri Kunj Bihari Meher, Shri Chaturbhuja Meher, and Shri Radheshyam Meher have played a pivotal role in taking Sambalpuri handloom to the world stage. Their outstanding craftsmanship and dedication earned them the highest civilian award, the “Padma Shree”, recognizing their contributions to the art of Sambalpuri saree weaving. The journey of Sambalpuri sarees reached a significant milestone with the establishment of the Sambalpuri Bastralaya in 1953 in the district of Bargarh by Padmasree Krutartha Acharya, known as the “Kala Gaurav” or glory of art. Alongside him, Padmasree Kunj Bihari Meher, Padmasree Chaturbhuja Meher, and Radheshyam Meher made significant contributions, helping these handwoven sarees gain recognition as “Sambalpuri sarees”.
In recent years, the demand for Sambalpuri sarees has experienced a remarkable surge, both within India and in international markets. This growing popularity can be attributed to several factors, highlighting the increasing interest in sustainable and eco-friendly fashion, the resurgence of artisanal crafts, and the rising appeal of traditional textiles.
One of the driving forces behind the escalating demand for Sambalpuri sarees is their inherent eco-friendliness and sustainability. Handloom weaving, the traditional method used in crafting these sarees, proves to be a low-carbon, energy-efficient process that utilises natural fibres and dyes. This makes Sambalpuri sarees an environmentally friendly alternative to the mass-produced textiles that dominate the market. Their durability and long-lasting nature further contribute to a more sustainable fashion industry by reducing the need for frequent replacements.
Another significant factor fueling the popularity of Sambalpuri sarees is the revival of artisanal crafts and traditional textiles. In a world of mass-produced goods, there is a growing appreciation for handmade products that showcase the skill and creativity of artisans. Sambalpuri sarees, with their intricate designs and patterns, serve as a tribute to the craftsmanship of the weavers, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of Odisha.
The surge in demand for Sambalpuri sarees has had a positive impact on the weaving communities in Odisha. Handloom weaving serves as a crucial source of livelihood for many rural families in the region, and the increased demand for Sambalpuri sarees has opened up new opportunities for them to earn a sustainable income. This not only enhances their economic well-being but also plays a vital role in preserving traditional weaving techniques and cultural practices that are integral to their identity.
Beyond their cultural and economic significance, Sambalpuri sarees have gained global recognition in the fashion industry due to their unique aesthetic appeal. The vibrant colours and intricate patterns make them ideal for formal occasions and special events, leading to their endorsement by celebrities and fashion influencers around the world.
To further promote Sambalpuri sarees and support the weaving communities in Odisha, various initiatives have been launched in recent years. These include exhibitions, fashion shows, and collaborations with designers to create contemporary designs that appeal to a wider audience. These efforts not only raise awareness about the cultural and historical significance of Sambalpuri sarees but also emphasises the importance of supporting the artisans behind these creations.
Despite the growing demand for Sambalpuri sarees, weavers face numerous challenges. The lack of modern equipment and technology makes the weaving process time-consuming and labour-intensive, impacting both the quality and quantity of production. Additionally, the weavers often grapple with competition from cheaper, mass-produced textiles, making it challenging for them to earn a fair wage for their exceptional work. To address these challenges, various organisations and government agencies have initiated efforts to support the handloom weaving industry in Odisha. These initiatives encompass providing training and education to weavers, improving access to markets and resources, and advocating for the use of eco-friendly and sustainable materials and techniques.
Sambalpuri sarees not only epitomise exquisite craftsmanship and cultural heritage but also symbolise a sustainable and eco-friendly approach to fashion. By embracing these handwoven treasures, consumers contribute to the preservation of traditional crafts and the empowerment of weaving communities, fostering a future where sustainability and artistry go hand in hand.
Author: Prerana Meher
Twitter: @PreranaMeher