The process of making Sambalpuri sarees is as mesmerising as the final product itself. The intricate art of dying and designing these sarees involves generations of knowledge passed down through the skilled hands of artisans, particularly from the Bhulia community in Western Odisha. Sambalpuri sarees, known for their unique weaving technique called “Bandha kala”, or the ikat technique, have geometric precision, intricate motifs, and vibrant yet natural colour palette. Let’s delve into the fascinating world of the weaving process of the Sambalpuri saree.
The weaving process of Sambalpuri sarees is labour-intensive as well as a complex and detailed craft, reflecting the immense patience, creativity, and expertise of the artisans at every stage. The creation of these sarees involves numerous steps, beginning with the preparation of bundles of thread or yarn. These bundles are wound onto bobbins and divided into two segments, known as “tana” (warp) and “buna” (weft), measured precisely according to the length of the saree. This is the foundation for the subsequent weaving process, which transforms simple yarn into a vibrant, intricate piece of art.
Before the yarn can be dyed, it must be carefully prepared through a series of steps. The yarn, still uncolored and spun from cotton, is first divided and grouped to get ready for the tying process. It is then wound onto a wooden reel (asari) using a circular device known as the Chakri. During this process, any broken yarn is swiftly repaired using ash paste, ensuring the knots are barely noticeable, which is vital for maintaining the fine quality of the final product.
Next, the thread is placed on a warping mechanism (jatur), which can either be an iron or wooden peg, depending on the dimensions of the saree. The threads are then threaded apart using a tool, and occasionally even an electronic device, before being attached to a hardwood frame called Kamada. Once in place, the yarn is ready for the famous “bandha kala” or tie-and-dye technique.
Bandha kala is one of the defining features of Sambalpuri sarees. Here, the artisans graft the yarn and draw intricate designs on it using a pen. These designs are carefully measured and tied with thin threads to preserve the intended patterns during the dyeing process. The areas that are not meant to absorb colour are tied securely, while wider sections are wrapped with thicker threads (suta) or flexible strips of plastic. Smaller sections, on the other hand, are tied with finer threads (bue). Once the yarn is tied, it is inserted into a shuttle (nari), which will be used to weave the weft of the fabric. The warp yarn is stretched out to its full length along a stand called pajni before being attached to the looms (manga). Before the weaving begins, the warp yarn is treated with chemicals derived from starch or rice paste, known as “mod.” This process, which uses water left over after boiling rice, strengthens the fabric and gives it a natural sheen.
The weaving process begins by preparing the loom. The yarn is passed through the loom’s herald following the design, which sets the foundation for the pattern. Once the shuttles are loaded with yarn and connected to the weft, the weaving process begins in earnest. The shuttle, when pulled, moves swiftly through two sections of the weft and into the warp, causing the design to gradually emerge on the woven fabric.
A crucial part of the weaving process is passing the warp through the reeds (boi), which separates each individual thread. This is a delicate task that requires immense experience and dexterity. As the shuttle is pulled and the comb is drawn together, a distinctive sound is produced, signalling that the fabric is taking shape. This rhythmic sound can be heard from a distance and is often a hallmark of a Bhulia house, where traditional weavers craft these exquisite sarees.
The meticulous attention to detail ensures that the pattern emerges flawlessly. Errors in the design are almost irreversible, and any mistake can significantly reduce the quality of the fabric. Therefore, the artisans work with extreme care to avoid any flaws in the weaving.
Once the weaving process is complete, the saree is classified as either “double ikat” (Milan) or “single ikat.” In double ikat, both the warp and the weft threads are tied and dyed, whereas in single ikat, only the weft is tied and dyed. These two methods are central to the creation of Sambalpuri sarees, contributing to the rich diversity of patterns and designs.
The next phase involves colouring the united pieces of yarn. The tied sections of the yarn remain white, while the rest is dipped into a liquid colour bath. The dyed bundles are then gradually unwrapped, and further colours are added by redipping them into additional colour baths. This process enhances the complexity and vibrancy of the design. However, to maintain the integrity of the patterns, the yarn must be dried thoroughly between each colour application before the wrappings can be removed.
The dyeing process for the warp yarn follows a slightly different path from the weft thread. Once the warp is tied, dyed, and dried, it is wound onto a larger circular device called the uffurna, which helps organise the yarn onto a reel. Afterward, a small pulley system transfers the coloured yarn onto a swift or spool, which is wound onto tiny spindles (nali). These spindles are then placed into the shuttle (nari) for weaving. This process involves drawing the shuttle through the weft, pulling the yarn tight, and creating each line of the pattern. Slowly, the design begins to emerge on the fabric, with every pass of the shuttle bringing the saree closer to completion. The sound of the shuttle passing through the loom, accompanied by the rhythmic clinking of the weaver’s tools, is a familiar and comforting sound in the villages where Sambalpuri sarees are made.
The weaving process requires immense concentration, as the patterns are often highly detailed and complex. The weaver must constantly check the alignment of the threads to ensure that the design remains consistent and symmetrical. Even a small mistake can disrupt the intricate patterns that have been carefully planned and executed throughout the dying process.
Sambalpuri sarees are not just garments; they are a symbol of Odisha’s rich cultural heritage, an evidence to the skill and artistry of the weavers who create them. Each saree is the result of weeks, sometimes months, of meticulous work, from the initial designing and tying of the yarn to the final weaving on the loom. The patience and dedication of the artisans ensure that each saree is a masterpiece, carrying with it the legacy of centuries of tradition.
From the painstaking process of tying and dying to the intricate weaving on handlooms, the creation of each Sambalpuri saree is a labour of love. This timeless craft continues to inspire, evolve, and transcend the boundaries of art and fashion, offering a glimpse into the artistry of a region that values its heritage while embracing the future.
Author: Prerana Meher
Twitter: @PreranaMeher